Wondering Through the Rice Terraces: Day 1

Bucket List #3: Hiking the rice terraces–CHECK

Banaue, Philippines 

DAY 1

Hiking around the rice terraces in the Cordillera mountains of Northern Philippines was at the top of my bucket list for the country. I had seen beautiful pictures of the green, seemingly never-ending terraces and couldn’t wait to walk amongst a traditional way of life for many.

I arrived to Banaue on a 10 hour sleepless, overnight bus getting rocked side to side while the road snaked around sharp curves the entire night. I thought the air conditioner would be a blessing, but it was enough to freeze my feet numb and my free airplane socks weren’t doing their job as expected. The loud oldies country music wasn’t putting me to sleep either, but like most cheap bus rides, it’s always an experience. An experience that distracted me from being ripped off $40 by the pleasant taxi driver who dropped me off at the bus station. I didn’t apologize for his pushiness in receiving a tip afterwards. I’m pretty sure the extra $35 I paid should cover it Sir.

After getting off the bus, foggy-headed and eyes heavy, I sat at a cafe overlooking the little town; already taken back by the view. I was set on taking a nap once at the hostel, however I figured I would just end up making up for a lost night’s sleep and not wake up until the next day. The French guy that was sitting next to me on bus was also planning to use the day wisely; hence the reason overnight buses are great, and was headed in the same direction. So, I decided to throw the idea of sleep away until later and start my adventures.

We hired a tricycle driver named, Vic. A chill, worry-free man with long greasy hair, blood-shot eyes and orange stained teeth. There wasn’t a moment he wasn’t chewing a concoction called Betel; a mix of a native orange fruit nut and white powder wrapped in a large leaf. When chewed it produces a mouth full of orange spit. It’s often seen flying out of mouths and staining the pavement. It’s believed to be a cure for hunger and exhaustion used for many years by natives working long hours in the rice fields. Sounds like it could be good for travelers too!

After a short tricycle ride, stopping to look at the incredible views the higher we rode and catching a glimpse of the village people as we passed by, we arrived at Hungduan, Ifugao; a small village about an hour from Banaue.

We set out for a 3 hour hike along the rice terraces ending at a hot spring along a river. It was a quiet, peaceful walk; weaving around the steep edges of the terraces. I wondered when I would catch a slippery spot or make the wrong move and fall meters below me into a watery rice mess.

Occasionally we walked by some locals working hard in the fields. I wondered what their daily life was like and I could only imagine the amount of energy and hours they put into producing the rice. We passed an old man who stopped to say hello and before I could reply back, he immediately went on to tell us how his life was the rice fields and if the younger generation doesn’t stop being lazy then the life many had worked so hard for will disappear. There was intense passion in his words and the story of a long, hard life written on his face.

We took a break at a hot spring along a river. I relaxed on a river rock and stuck my sweaty, swollen feet into the water. I was having trouble keeping my eyes open all day and eventually I fell asleep on a cement ledge under a thatch roof waiting for the downpour of rain to subside before heading back.

I had expected to climb a lot more steps throughout the rice fields and was a bit relieved when the path was mostly flat. The next day definitely did not disappoint however, and I was going to find out what it really meant to climb steps..all day!